I know it’s only the second part, but this is where things get a little hectic and unorthodox. The week we went to Sardinia happened to be a windy week where waves for a couple boat trips caused us to have to move some plans around and do a bit more driving than we planned. In the end, everything worked out very well and we were still able to do everything with a few swaps.
This morning, we woke up at our beautiful property in the hills of Arzachena and enjoyed a homemade breakfast buffet. The staff even pulled our espresso shots and crafted a delightful cappuccino with a bit of cacao. Delish. The breakfast was very cake and fruit heavy. Nothing screams vacation more!
On the agenda was a journey to an incredible farm, Sa Mandra, where everything they serve is either grown, raised, and harvested, on property, or within a few kilometers from nearby farms. We booked a lunch for the first of May, an important day on the island and were in for a special menu. The first of May marks a very special day in Sardinia, the Procession of Sant’Efisio, the longest in Europe and hosted in Cagliari and other stops along the southern coast. Unfortunately, after looking at the schedules, we wouldn’t make it to Cagliari for the festival, although, this lunch in Alghero was a celebration in of itself that I can’t get out of my head.
We drove from Arzachena to Alghero, yes, around a two hour drive to lunch. Do you even know me? The journey was accompanied by the inter-dispersal of sunshine and rain, but when we arrived, we quickly made our way inside to our hostess and immediately felt cozy. Sa Mandra is considered one of the best argiturismo’s in Sardina. The farm is owned and operated by a family of four. The father a farmer, mother a chef, daughter the hostess and manager, and son, spit-master supreme. We arrived at the property early enough to walk around the grounds and see the various decor, displays, and a bit of the farm. Sa Mandra also has a guesthouse for people who want to stay on the property for the full experience. It’s also great for children, because there are animals to pet and a playground to run a muck.
We sat down in a tucked away corner in a beautifully decorated room: a mosaic of copper pots and pans on the walls. Lunch began with our choice of wine, a whole bottle. It was followed by an insane variety of pecorino cheese, honey, lard, prosciutto, and pickled veggies to share. Yes, already full. Each dish came with just enough portions to keep us satisfied, but moving at a fair pace onto the next dish. I loved how the plating was very simple, but on dish ware that made the place feel like dining in someone’s home.
The second round included more vegetables; fregola, a couscous-like pasta dish; a stuffed ravioli in tomato sauce; cordula, which is sheep offals; wild boar in sauce, and the famous suckling pig. You can imagine how much we were slowed down. I was happy to see dessert come in the form of a variety of Sardinian confections. Some reminded me of scones and biscuits and beaded truffles, but they all had their own special character and craft and I truly liked it all, for being a very simple ice cream, chocolate cake, and chocolate chip cookie lover.
I loved how we were able to try their housemade grappa, who much to my chagrin I can still taste in the back of my throat. I’m glad it happened to be alongside my new favorite liquor, mirto. It was a great way to end and cleanse that dirty little girl of a palette. They even asked us if we wanted more of anything which I thought was incredible. Looking back, I wish I brought a handy tupperware. It felt like we were the first ones there and the last to leave. Seeing the restaurant full of families and couples was very special, and for how busy and packed the day was, I know that each party felt like they were being cared for in the warmest of village-like homes.
I knew I wanted to see the sheep in the field so we walked to the outskirts of the property to be unwelcome by the barks of sheep dogs and a never-ending bout of sheep cries. It felt a little sad to know that I had eaten their brother, but I felt one with the earth enough to let it go. We visited other animals like horses, cows, chickens, goats, and even a donkey!
After realizing we spent way too long playing with the animals, we decided to head back with a cheeky stop in the city of Olbia, yes, another two-hour drive back home. If it weren’t for being a Wednesday, I would have liked to go to Bosa for the day because of a legendary pizza al taglio spot there, but alas, closed on Wednesdays. We found a gelato spot called Villi, walked around the town, and found ourselves home once again at a delightful cocktail steampunk-vibe bar called Spirits. Their menu was beautiful and had creations that could rival any of the world’s best bars! While eating olives and enjoying the music, we talked about our day and of course, chatted with the bartenders.
As we were making our way back to the car, I noticed an artisan sandal shop, quickly made a decison, and purchase a pair of strappy flats that I would be wear out the door and be rocking for weeks and hopefully, years, to come.
